(18th Oct. to 05th Nov. 2015)
The beginning of the autumn this year had been blissful for me. I made a surprise trip to my village in Kinnaur, and surprisingly I got the chance to take part in a village folk dance function which usually I don't get or people there do not expect a city dweller like me to do so. As my visit coincided with the culmination of spiritual congregation and preaching by Lama Gobind ji, and the wedding of one of my cousins, I got bunches of lifetime opportunities to meet all the village folks, including my relatives and my childhood friends, and bonded so well with each one of them, recollecting and reliving our good olden days. I cannot thank God enough for all the opportunities he bestows upon me through my own instinctive decisions. Yeah, I have a habit of behaving on my impulses, for none of what I do are ever planned. And such is the journey of my life that no one gives me surprises but myself. I guess that's the gift of being single. ;-) And one such surprise I gave to myself just few weeks after returning from my village, and here goes the account of that dreamlike journey....
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| "The country life; going back to roots!" |
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| "Village folk dance; You can spot me in the last picture!"" ;-) |
Part- 1 : Darjeeling
(18th Oct. to 24th Oct.)
Remember my Mountain dream, for which I did Basic Mountaineering course from NIM Uttarkashi last year? Its truly said, "once you go into Mountains, it becomes a home for you where you feel like going again and again." And yes I am not an exception, for I know there are so much in the Mountains; like more mysteries, secrets and lessons for which I feel like going back to it again and again and to deeply feel those deep secrets of Mountains, and at the same time to learn and know more about my own self. And to prepare myself best for this, I applied for advance mountaineering course at HMI this year; but I am not unaware of the fact that Mountains say,"If you want to come to us, come prepared or you shall be your own doom". So after so much of mental calculations and thinking that I would get a transfer to North, where I would get enough time for workouts and all, I applied for Oct. batch of Mountaineering at HMI, Darjeeling. But alas, I couldn't get a transfer; and here in Mumbai where I have to get ready for office the moment I open my eyes and once back in the evening I see nothing but my bed, I hardly get time and space for the requisite preparation. So I wasn't prepared at all as per the Mighty Mountain's expectations, and was reluctant as well as apprehensive. But all my tickets had been pre-booked, and also as I wanted to see what lies beyond all those apprehensions and fears, I did not cancel it, and set out for Darjeeling with so many mixed feelings running down my spine on 18th Oct., and reached the campus quite late in the evening along with Prachi, whom I met at the taxi stand and shared a taxi together. She was also from Mumbai and was there for her basic course. She looked all excited and I felt good to see her, and the best part was that we got to share the same room along with two other girls, Aashna (for advance) and Tarannum (for basic), and we had super-fun time there together for a week. :-)
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| "They are the reason why I went to HMI at first place; Cheers to friends and the fun time together!"" |
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| "More fun with friends @ HMI, Gombu/Tenzin Rocks, Zoo & Tiger Hill!"" |
Well, the very first day, I got the feeling of 'Oh I am really not up for this as of now" when I couldn't run along with the entire batch for 5 kms up and down hill slope, and instead I just walked, with a little bit of pretentious run when Instructors would shout. Lol And at the very moment my mind had started taking me somewhere else. I had read long back about Gurudongmar Lake in Sikkim in some book, and since then it was in the back of my mind, and the feeling that 'I am not prepared for Mountaineering this time, and the constant ringing of this lake in my head' started making room for me to quit Mountaineering, which I shared with some of my friends as well as instructors. But they all insisted that I should not quit, for they believed that I could do it. Even I knew that I would do it, but I wasn't in a position to do it halfheartedly, for by then I was 50 % there and 50 % somewhere else. The following days also, except for the running part, I could do all other activities, of course with so much efforts. My instructors advised me to complete the trial trek of 11 kms to Tiger hill, from which I would be able to judge my own stamina and endurance level as two times more of that effort would be required to go to the higher camps. Though I enjoyed the trek and didn't face much of the problem, but at the end of it I declared that 'I am quitting, as the call is not from the Mountains, but from Gurudongmar lake". I felt bad to disappoint so many of my new friends who tried their best to convince a strong headed girl like me. But I am happy to have gone there and meeting them all, and yes I am in touch with so many of them. Hmm! Moving ahead here I go with my next venture; that is my first ever long solo. ;-)
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| "It's not talking, but walking that takes you to places!"" |
After seeing my friends and instructors off, who left for Mountains on 24th Oct, I went on exploring Darjeeling city. I just walked and walked and going through the Mall road passing thorough many shops, streets, market place, clock tower and many houses I didn't realize how I reached Peace Pagoda, a Japanese style Temple which would have been a good 6-7 kms from HMI. While walking through the mall road, as it was a clear weather day, I could have a good view of Mount Kanchenjunga, our sleeping Buddha which was just mesmerizing. I couldn't take my eyes off it for long and stood at every point gazing at it and taking pictures when I came back to my senses. After paying obeisance at the pagoda, which really was peaceful as it was quite far from the main city, I started my walk again and just kept walking till Happy tea estate. After reaching there and exploring a bit of it, I just realized that I was hungry as well as tired, and I had to inquire for a taxi to Sikkim the following day. So I called off for the day and after doing the needful, walked back to HMI, and in total I would have walked for more than 20-25 kms that day. A proud feeling indeed! :-)
Part -2 : Sikkim
(25th Oct. to 31st Oct.)
And then the next day early in the morning I bid farewell to Prachi and Tarannum and left for Sikkim. As it was tourist season at that time, there was a big fight for taxis, and I took a shared taxi at 8:30 am as pre booked the previous day, and reached Gangtok at 12:30 pm, checked into a nearby Hotel, and after getting fresh and having lunch, went to the market place at MG Marg, inquiring about taxis and permits for Gurudongmar lake. The tourism office advised me to check with some local registered agents who will arrange the permit and tour for me. As there were limits for people traveling to Gurudongmar due to its higher altitude, they do not allow children and aged people to visit; that's why I was unable to get it easily. After checking with 2-3 agents, finally I got the package as per my requisite from one of the lady agents, who was delighted to see a lady, traveling solo and remembered her own olden times when she used to travel alone. One thing which made me comfortable was that there in Sikkim no one would get shocked if they came to know that I came alone, for when I went to south last year, people there looked shocked and raised there eyebrows asking me with wonder,"You really came alone?" Lol! So, with the deal done, as per the agent's direction I reported at the taxi stand at 10:00 am, but it took another one hour for the taxi to arrive, which would have been busy with permit formalities. As it was on sharing basis, there were two Bengali families consisting of 9 people and I was the 10th adjustment. Lol! As we were traveling, at no point I felt like I was traveling to another state or city, for I felt like I had been there earlier also; may be in my previous births or may be just because Sikkim is more like my own home state Himachal; the same roads, same trees along the road and people with same features as ours. Hmm, Whatever it may be, I was just rejoicing, cherishing every moment. After stopping for sight seeing at some beautiful places and waterfalls and for lunch and evening tea at Namok and Chungthang, we reached Lachen, our base village at 7:00 pm in the evening. As it was quite cold and also I felt tired, I just retired to bed after a quick dinner at 8:00 pm. The driver told us to wake up at 3:00 as we were supposed to leave by 3:30 am because there are set timings for entry of Vehicles to the lake. But we couldn't come up to his expectation, and it was already 4:30 when we finally left Lachen. lol
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| "The beautiful waterfalls on the way!" |
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| "The breaking of dawn!"" |
From Lachen which is at a height of 8500 ft, the drive became quite thrilling as the jeep drove higher and higher through curvy and bumpy Mountain road with receding vegetation and then touching the barren Mountains and then soon coming face to face with snow clad mountains; and we could really feel the chill running down in our nerves. I put on my jacket, goggles and scarf to face the rough condition there. We reached by 10:30 am at the entrance of the lake, which was the last permit point. Few people from our taxi and few from another taxi were not allowed to go given to their age and health conditions, and we were accommodated accordingly in one jeep, while other jeep took those people to lower altitude. From that entrance the newly metaled road running through flat mountain tops, the view changed entirely and now it looked more like Ladakh. As the driver was a new kid, we lost our way and kept driving till we reached the mining area where it was written in CAPS 'DANGER ZONE" but in front of it was another lake which was as beautiful as Gurudongmar and we took it for Gurudongmar until we realized that there were no one around. Then taking a u- turn we drove back and stopped in the middle, just to check if we could have a glimpse of some human as well as vehicle. A biker came later, and we asked him the way, but he himself seemed lost. We drove further and then finally we saw a jeep coming down from the left side of the Mountain and caught the jeep and asked for direction. Then a little off-roading and driving through wheels-made roads upwards, finally we reached Gurudongnmar after 5 minutes drive from there. And yes, finally I was there, facing my dream destination! Let me shout a "WOOOHOOO!!!" for I am still in that mode. It was real awesome; crystal clear, pristine bluish water body surrounded by snow capped mountains on one side and barren slope on another, it just looked 'mesmerizing' I couldn't contain my joy and ran to a spot where no one was around and from where I could see the entire lake. I stood there with awe, for I had no words. At that point I really wished if I could ask the lake why it called, which made me quit Mountaineering in between! But at the same time I felt an inner joy and inner satisfaction with an urge to let some tears of joy out. The lake at 17800 ft is one of the highest lakes of India, and with the thin air around one cannot stay there for long. Even I could feel the dizziness in my head after 15-20 minutes, and yes others felt the same. The Legend has it that Guru Rinpocche, the 8th century Buddhist Tantric Guru, whom I too revere, visited this lake in 8th century, and touched a little part of the lake, which never freezes, thus giving water supply to the people there. The lake is named after him. Not only for Buddhist, but the lake is also a holy place for Sikhs, who believe that Guru Nanak ji visited this lake and made it holy during one of his visits. So there had been a controversy regarding this for long between the two religious communities. But whatever may be the case, the lake had something magical about it which touches a part of you that you carry along with you forever. :-)
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| "So, here is my answer to it's irresistible call; and I am glad that I could answer it!"" (Blessed Nawi) |
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| "Some light moments on the bank of River Teesta!"" |
Driving back I was still filled with a tickling joy inside. Our next stop for the day was at Lachung, where we reached at around 6:00 in the evening. Lachung was another beautiful village situated along both sides of river Lachung which later becomes a tributary of Teesta. And next day we went exploring Yumthang Valley and Yumesumthang. Yumthang is a valley floor with beautiful mountains around which seemed to be a grazing point for cows as I noticed many of them there. As the two families in my taxi were busy hiring snow boots and jackets from the local hawkers for the mission zero point i.e. Yumesumthang, I went walking to explore the valley and had my heart's fill for 20 minutes. As the pahadan or the mountaineering in me prevented me from hiring any snow boots and jackets, I preferred to go in my two layers of clothings only. Another 2 hour journey, in between which our jeep broke down due to leakage of water, which would have consumed a good 2 hours of ours, thus making us drag, we reached Zero point at 1:00 pm And as called zero point due to its sub zero temperature, it really was so cold. But the beauty around made us filled with excitement and happiness, and thus shivering we enjoyed the chilly scenic beauty. That was the last point of our trip, and we returned to Gangtok via Lachung where we stayed for lunch.
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| 'On the way to Yumthang Valley!"' |
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| "The beautiful Yumthang Valley!"" |
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| "Well, this is the zero point, where chilly wind blows so harshly and beautifully!"" |
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| "Nature's constructive and destructive aspects side by side!"" |
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| "Lachung Village on the bank of Lachung river!"" |
The next day, I kept my appointment with Meme Sidhu, who is a monk and a distant relative of mine, and above all he is like a friend and spiritual guide to me, who calls me 'Khyambo' i.e. aawara or wanderer. Lol I went to his Monastery, Chhorten which is in Gangtok only. It had been a fruitful day as he took me for local sight seeing along with one of his Bhutani Friends. As per my first choice, we went to Rumtek Monastery which is 25 kms from Gangtok, and is beautifully located amidst nature and from here you can have a good view of the whole valley. It also houses the relics of 16th Karmapa, who rebuilt the Monastery which was in ruins when he arrived in Sikkim after fleeing from Tibet in 1959. We paid our obeisance in the temple and to the relics of Karmapa, where the statues of all earlier 16 Karmapas were installed. It really had something divine inside the shrine that I didn't feel like getting up and returning as I sat in the corner in praying mode. But coming back to reality, we have no choice but to come to our senses. Then they took me to other places like Ranka Monastery, Hanuman Tok and Ganesh Tok, which all had their own magical powers to let the joy penetrate in my soul. It really was a soulful and spiritual awakening day as I got ample of time to talk to Meme Sidhu on various aspects of life and karma. After a satisfying day we bid farewell after having our stomachs filled with Pizza, sandwiches and coffee at one of the restaurants at MG Marg. :-)
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| "The Rumtek Monastery!"" |
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| "Pilgrim's progress @ Ranka Monastery!"" |
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| "Hanuman Tok!"" |
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| "A fruitful day indeed!"" (Blessed me) |
The next day on 30th of October, I went to Nathu La, Baba Mandir and Tsonga Lake. Nathu la was 56 kms from the state capital, and the drive took us through snow capped mountains and beautiful misty atmosphere. The old silk route and the route to Lhasa were heart touching. The drive of course was excitingly beautiful with beautiful views of Mountains in layers and the clouds rising above them in bunches making it more enchanting. At Chipsu the driver stopped the taxi asking us to put extra layers of clothes and to drink tea if we want as the the temperature started decreasing and flow of cold wind started increasing. I pulled out my jacket and scarf and covered myself fully. And yes, on reaching Nathu laa, it started snowing; my first snow of this season of course, I had all reason to feel special and thank God. As this was the tourist season and Nathula is the main tourist interest and almost everybody who visits Sikkim goes to Nathula, there was huge traffic jams on road. Thank God no foreign tourists are allowed to visit, otherwise it would have been more disastrous, for the landscape itself looked perfectly beautiful to attract every human being on earth there. Passing through many check posts on the way we reached the Pass at around 11:50 am. As cameras were not allowed, I kept them in the jeep only and walked towards the gate, from where there were steps to go upto the top. It was real cold with snowflakes falling all over. It was like the Guardians of the Pass were throwing flowers in a welcome gesture. I expected the border to be a ‘no man’s land’ for some kilo meters but no, here you will see the real border of two barbed wires, on either side of which the Indian and Chinese Armies guard their respective borders by patrolling with guns in their hands. A very mixed or rather I would say sad feeling started creeping deep within me. At that point I could see nothing but the feeling ‘why there has to be borders?’ was so strong that few drops of tears came out of my eyes. The other Indians were shaking hands with the Chinese armies saying hi and hello, full of excitement, while I kept standing in my own thoughts gazing at them, and my gaze met with one of the Chinese soldier thrice, who must have been just wondering or who must have taken me for a Tibetan, but I couldn’t stand it for long and taking a brisk walk, descended down the steps. I took the ‘certificate of visit’ from one of the army officers and went down searching for the taxi. As the other members were still busy I got enough time to enjoy the nature around and let the odd feeling go away, as to tell you in my own language, "I can drink nature. Literally!"" ;-)
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| "Nathu La" |
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| "Kupup, the last Indian village!"" |
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| "The awe-inspiring landscape!"" |
Our next spot for the day was ‘Baba mandir’ and I had no clue what it was all about? But once I reached I reached to the surprise of a legendary and mysterious tale of saint soldier baba Harbhajan. The legend goes like this: The baba was a soldier, who took part in 1961 Indo-Chinese war, and while escorting a mule caravan from his battalion headquarters in Teluka to Dengchukla, he fell into a fast flowing stream and got drowned. Later he appeared in the dream of a fellow soldier and informed him to look for his body at a particular spot and asked to build a shrine. To everybody’s surprise his body was found at that spot and to pay the respect a shrine was built. The belief in him is still so strong in Indian as well as Chinese army that in conferences and joint summits, a seat is kept reserved for him. And it is said that he still warns of any dangerous activities at the border through the dreams of his fellow army men. That really was some mysterious story and belief. I saw army men sitting in the main temple and paying deep obeisance to him. His Bunker is still kept intact, and it looked like he is very much alive and does his daily routine job like every other soldier on duty. Thus with this wonderful mysterious experience we drove back, as it was already late and the whole valley seemed to be enveloping in dark mysterious clouds. From the Baba Mandir, the view of Bhutan Himalayas was just another treat to my eyes. I loved every bit of it. We passed through Kupup, the last Indian village on that side, and on the way came across a lake, which was like an elephant, that’s why the name elephant lake. Then driving back, we stopped at Tsomgo lake for a while, and then drove fast to Gangtok. The clouds I mean the dark clouds had spread throughout the mountains, not sparing the roads also. The driver put on the front lights, but still it was not visible. With zero visibility, he drove in crawling pace for a long time till the point where the clouds seemed to be thinning a little and from where we could see the road, and then he drove crazily. Lol
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| "Baba ji ka bunker!"' |
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| "Baba mandir, and in front is the view of Bhutan Himalayas!"" |
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| "The Lhasa Road, the elephant lake, the Tsomgo lake and the yaks!"" |
Part-3 : Bhutan; the land of thunder dragon
(1st to 4th November)
Bhutan is also a part of my instinctive decision. On 31st of October, I had some plans to visit few Monasteries in west Sikkim, but that could not happen. So, I took a taxi to Siliguri and from Siliguri I took the Bus to Jaigaon, the border town with Bhutan. As I reached quite late in the evening at 7:45 pm I had to struggle to get a room in a hotel, as due to the tourist season almost all the hotels seemed fully packed. So at last I found a room in a lodge, where I dropped the bag and went out to inquire about the tour. Only one tour operator was open at that time, so I had to book from there for the very next day. And next day I went along with the taxi driver to the visa office for the permit. The immigration boys in immigration office, all in their traditional dress, wondered when I said I am not from Bhutan. They really thought that I might be from Bhutan. Then they teased,’You look like Bhutani, so you should stay in Bhutan only!” I joked back,”Why not, if you allow!” Lol Later my driver, who seemed to be an innocent Jaigaon boy, asked,”Mam, agar aapko rehne denge toh sachi me reh loge yahan?” Lol. I was like 'Nooo, ghar toh ghar hota hai, jitna marzi bhatak lo ghar toh wapas jana he hai" Lol
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| "The first sight; Crocodile special at Phuntsoeling!"" |
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| "Phuentsoling; we can see Jaigaon, the border town of India!"" |
The journey started, and the moment we crossed the Bhutan gate, the complete contrast picture of cleanliness, lesser crowd and peace in the air of Bhutan to the crowded, noisy and polluted side of our country was just surprising. Starting from Phuentsoling (450 mt), it was a very smooth journey upwards through broad, well metaled curvy roads up to Paro (2200 m), and passing and stopping at various places for sight seeing and food break we finally reached Paro at 4:00 pm in the evening. It really was a different feeling to travel in Bhutan as the entire air there felt so peaceful and sacred. My earlier pledge/resolution that 'I shall not go to any other country unless I finish my own country' was broken by my visit to Bhutan. But then I was like 'Oh, it doesn't require a visa but a permit to visit Bhutan for Indians' so in a way it's not another country but our own." On top of that, people there speak good Hindi, BRO was at work, Indian armies were everywhere, and also we do not have to exchange our currency as Indian Rupee is accepted there. So, it was like traveling to our own country. And therefore I have yet not broken my pledge. Yes! ;-)
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| "Paro Chhu, paro bridge and Paro airport!" |
My main destination from where I got the inner call was 'Paro Taksang Monastery' or 'Tiger's nest' which really is a wonder to the world and Bhutan's main attraction. So, next day early in the morning I left for it, which was about 10-11 kms upward trek from its base and which took me around 2 hours with 10 minutes tea break at the midway cafeteria. This was my first ever Solo trek, so let me feel proud!' (Wink) The trek was quite steep and though I have no right to call it a hard trek, being a pahadan and mountaineering graduate, but yes it was quite hard a trek for normal people. There was a provision of horse ride till midway only, from where no horses are allowed. Walking moderately upwards and then descending a long stretch of steps downwards, cherishing every bit of nature's company, clicking pictures, I reached at the base of the temple which has a beautiful waterfall and around which the large number of prayer flags fluttering colorfully acted as a bonus to the senses. As it was a misty morning, I still couldn't have a glimpse of the temple, which otherwise would have been visible throughout the trail as I could observe while descending down, as the weather cleared and became sunny as well. So I felt delighted to see and feel both aspects of its beauty and wonder.
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| "The trail; Here we go!" |
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| "The mid-point!" |
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| "The misty weather; I felt enchanted!" |
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| "And when the mist cleared; the wonder happened!"" |
Since no cameras were allowed inside the monastery, I put my bag in the locker and went inside. One Bhutani guide was busy telling the legendary story of this wonderful shrine to two of his guests, I couldn't resist and after paying obeisance to Guru Rinpochhe in the main shrine, I asked if I could also sit and listen to the story? He was more than glad and nodded. And then what, for an hour I sat in the corner along with two foreign tourists, listening to the legend. And the legend was not new to me, as I remembered some of the incidents as already told to me by my mother when I was a child. So, the legend has it that Guru Rinpochche or Guru Padamsambhava, the 8th century Buddhist Guru, came riding on the back of a Tigress (his spiritual consort 'Yeshe Tsogyal) and subdued the local demon, and established Buddhism there, and then meditated there for three years, 3 months, 3 weeks and 3 days. The cave where he meditated is opened only once a year. The Temple was built by Tenzin Rabgye in 1692 who is believed to be the reincarnation of Guru Rinpochche himself. A temple on a cliff, who can build it? Not a normal human being obviously? And such wonderful creations really make our belief in some divine power stronger. I had the fill of my spirit after visiting this temple that I wanted nothing but to sit and just contemplate. Hmm
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| "Kyichu Monastery; the oldest one!" |
After lunch I went for local sight seeing at Paro, including Kyichu Monastery, oldest monastery in Bhutan, Museum and Dzong etc. Though I loved all of them, but I was still not over with the wonderful experience of Tiger's Nest.
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| "Paro city darshan!"" |
Then next visit was to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, which comparatively was more populated than the other parts of the country. But still no match for the population of any city of our own country. Very few traffic jams happened. And when once it happened I said to my driver,"yahan traffic jam bhi kitne pyar aur shanti se hota hai" lol At Thimphu the main attraction was the 169 ft tall gigantic statue of Buddha, magnificently built recently. From here we can have a panoramic view of entire city.
I paid a visit to the museum, Monastery and Dzong as well.
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| "Visit to the Budha point on an auspicious day!" |
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| "Thimphu, the capital city of thunder dragon!" |
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| "Takin, the national animal of Bhutan!"" |
What I liked most about Bhutan was it's emphasis on preservation of culture, tradition, language, religion, art, architecture and nature. They still have not given up their traditional dresses like Chhuba (for men) and kira (for women) and from children to the old all wear them with grace. They have the houses in same structure and to my surprise Mountaineering is banned; for people there revere the Mountain peaks as Gods and do not want them to be polluted by human intervention and garbage dumps. No wonder now for the secret behind their Gross national happiness policy. :-)
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| "The most humble, calm, grounded and contented people on earth!"" |
With so many new experiences and lessons from this small and mystic land of thunder dragon, I took a return journey on 4th and halted for the night at Bagdogra, from where I had a late evening flight to catch for Delhi. It had been complete 20 days away from home, and I was craving badly for home made food. Lol :D
Overall this entire 20 days had been the best days of my life, which I would claim as my own gift to myself, my own surprises to myself and in the process I have known and learnt a lot, and to sum up I would say,"Andhere me teer maari, mujhe mili roshni!"" :-) (Being thankful)
