Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Kodaikanal to Munnar; Trekking Expedition

Kodaikanal to Munnar; Trekking Expedition
(18th to 24th December, 2014)

Back to treks & trails! Woohoo! I was so excited, as the scheduled day for trek was approaching near. This was my first with youth hostels, which I had to book, since I do not get a trekking partner among my close friends and family, for they hardly take any interest in climbing mountains, and moreover our schedule always clash. So, without giving a second thought I clicked the book button on YHAI’s site. And soon the day came.
Day- 1; Travel to Kodaikanal, the Base camp
(18th Dec. 14)

The nearest airport to Kodaikanal is Madurai, which is around 135 kms from there. So, I had already booked return flight to Madurai, and guess which flight I would have booked? Yess, Spice jet, the same flight which had been going through a tumbling phase at that time, and had been cancelling and delaying flights every now and then at the very last moment. So, I decided if my flight gets cancelled, I would cancel the trek, for my budget also had the possibility of going out of balance. But I got no such news or intimation of cancellation of my flight, and with fingers crossed; I pre-booked a taxi to airport at 4:45 am as my flight was scheduled at 6:15 am.  But when I woke up at 4:00 am at the call of my alarm clock’ the first message on my mobile screen flashed of, was from spice jet, saying, ‘your flight has been delayed for one hour.’ Lol I called the taxi and postponed the pickup for another half an hour. And thank God, the flight took off at 7:30 am, and after half an hour’s halt at Chennai, it landed at Madurai at around 11:45 am. I hired a taxi to Bus station which was another 11-12 kms from airport. The same problem which I faced at Chennai last time, I had to face here also. The boards displayed were in Tamil only. People spoke in Tamil only. And I had to resort to sign language only. Lol As I didn’t have my breakfast, and spice jet also apologized for not being able to serve any food and beverage onboard at that time, I was feeling damn hungry. I thought it best to have coconut water with malai, which I saw just at the entrance of the bus station. Well, it quenched my thirst as well as satisfied my hunger. Sometimes, I think myself smarter than I really am. Uff. I thought the buses to Madurai would be frequent. So, when the taxi driver gestured towards a bus, which was about to leave and said,’Kodaikanal’ I just smiled back and thanked and turned my back to the bus to walk towards coconut water. And when I went to the bus enquiry counter, I learnt through gestures that the next bus will leave at 1:20 pm, and I had to wait for more than an hour. Lol. And again I thought that the bus will take hardly 2 hours,  and I will definitely reach before it gets dark, but once again my over smart assumption was wrong. Yes, the bus took more than 4 hours, as the drive after entering kodaikanal forest area became quite slow, due to upward and curvy hilly roads. The weather also became cloudy and started raining in between. But I was enjoying at every juncture as the dark greenery of Western Ghats had so much to offer to ones senses. The real apprehensive I became, when finally I reached Kodaikanal bus station and it became quite dark. I asked for direction to Greenland’ (Base camp) from locals, who said that it’s at a walking distance only. I took out my phone, but there was no network coverage. I put on the jacket, and walked faster than I would normally do. I kept walking.  There were few roadside shops and hotels, but no trace of Greenland. It was getting darker, and now I started getting apprehensive, as some of the guys on bikes and vans started staring and shouting, “want a ride, or shall we drop you somewhere?” I maintained my outside calm, and politely said to all of them, “No, thank you, I would love to walk.” Then eventually I reached a place, with no trace of human around, but the fogs. Few shops were there, but all closed. It was dark as fog had engulfed all around and the pin drop silence amidst the darkness reminded me of some horror movie. Lol.  I kept walking towards the end and instinctively turned right, when I saw the board, with the arrow marked over it as ‘Greenland’s’! I sighed and smiled and entered the gate. Finally I saw some movements and heard some noise, and assured myself, “Nawi, now chill, you have reached safely finally!” I encountered two girls, who smiled at me and said, “Hello!” I returned their “Hello” with a broader smile and walked towards reception. The moment I climbed the steps to the reporting area, I encountered, Vilas, one of the broker associated with my office. We both were shocked & surprised to see each other. Lol.  He introduced me to his group and to the two girls I met earlier, Rupa and Kalpna, from Bangalore, who became my good friends during the course of the trek. I thanked God for always sending angels before me to guide and guard me, who leaves me never alone and lonely.  At the registering counter, the fellow on duty asked me, “From which group are you?” I questioned back, “I don’t know, am I supposed to be in a group?” oh, later I came to know that all the people who had come there had come in groups or in pairs. I was the only one to come all alone, and when I told him that I am alone, he made a surprising gesture and grinned thoughtfully; either appreciating me to have the courage to come all the way to TN all alone, or thinking that I am an insane person to have done so. Whatever it was, for me all felt quite amusing. One big group formed 14 people from Gujarat, which comprised of 5 couples and 4 individuals, another group of which Vilas was also a member comprised 14 people, all from Mumbai, another group comprising of 2 couples were from Pune, Rupa and Kalpana from Bangalore was another group and lastly 1 family comprising of a couple and three kids formed another group. The above mentioned groups and some other people in total formed a trekking group of 52 people.
"If you ask me to read, I'll read it as 'Jalebi jalebi jalebi....." :P
Day-2; Trek to Vellagavi
(19th Dec.14)

Early morning tea at 6:00 am! I went outside and a beautiful scenery around welcomed me; the view around was mesmerizing with full greenery and the rising clouds from below, playing with the mountains and trees, flirting and fleeting looked really magical. Though the trek was supposed to start at 9:30, but due to rain, it started at 10:00 am. As I didn’t have barsaati (sort of rain sheet) to protect myself from rain, Vilas and friends got one for me too. And for Lunch box and mug, which I didn’t know that we were supposed to get along, Devakrishan from TN got me a new set from market. All had been so helpful and supportive, and my sincere thanks to all of them. So, the trek started at around 10:15 am. Walking upwards through road for almost 1 km, we finally entered the real trek route through a narrow entrance towards forest area. The route was very narrow and sloppy and due to the rain, it had become very slippery as well. So care had to be taken at every step. For me, the trek was quite moderate and I felt strong enough to help the kids Alina and Ajab, who became the best company for whole trek. Walking with full concentration for an hour or half, we descended down and found a beautiful water stream. We relaxed our muscles for a while and trekked further. The whole trek was downhill and was around 7-8 kms and took us around 6 hours. The lush green narrow jungle full of rich flora, which has the privilege of being the only way to commute during 18th century British India, treated us well.

"Hello Happiness!!"
On reaching our camping site at the village, Vellagavi the first thing we were taught was that we weren’t supposed to walk in shoes near mandir premises, and to our wonder we found temples at every corner; every tree as well as rocks had been turned into temples, and in total there were around 300 temples in this small village with population around 50. And people here walked barefoot no matter what. This village still doesn’t have a road and people commute to kodaikanal and nearby cities to get essentials on foot, and wonder what they walk barefoot and so fast that it’s difficult to match their speed. ‘Bravo Vallagavians! For your undying faith, and purity of your love for whichever God you pray!’
"Yeh galian, Vellagavi ki. <3 "
From our camping site, we could have a glimpse of our base camp at Kodaikanal, which was at the top of the hill, and I felt so proud for myself as well as for the group, for covering that much distance on foot, for in total we had trekked through three hills, the demarcation being quite visible from there. (Sigh)

Day-3; Vellagavi--Kumbakarai--Kurangini
(20th Dec. 14)

The trek route was wider and moderate 11 kms trek downhill till Kumbakarai, from where the YH buses picked us up and dropped us to Kurangini. The mind refreshing trek, amidst of thick green forest, full of coffee, cardamom and tamarind trees, was easier than the previous day’s trek, and we covered it in less than five hours. The weather at the initial phase was quite hazy as everywhere there were fogs and we had to struggle to see the route, and to speak the truth I felt as if I was inside deep ocean water, the feeling which later on Rupa also shared. Later on the weather became quite friendly with us and we had our share of fun walk; singing, talking and admiring the nature around for its abundance of beauty in various forms. The rich flora around was treat to our eyes, and rich fauna in the form of beautiful songs being sung by different birds (I can’t name them, for lack of knowledge) were treat to our ears, and together they would co-ordinate in such a lovely way that beautified our heart and enriched our soul.  As the trek was long, few of the group members felt losing their stamina for the next day trek and were making up minds to travel by road to Munnar and quit trekking in the middle. Hmm
 
'Breathe Nature & be Natural!"
Day-4; Trek to central Station
(21st Dec. 14)

The trek for the day was for 11-12 kms. And it was the real trek as we had to go through some of the most challenging routes. Some of the group members, who didn’t want to trek further, including Azhar and family except Ajab, and two couples from Pune, left us at Kurangini to directly meet us at Munnar. The trek was moderate upward trek for first 7 kms, and then the 5 kms tough ascent through steep hills made every nerve squeeze. It was the toughest of all the days. The trek started with super shining sun above us. And after trekking through the roads and some open spaces, we finally felt relieved when we entered the forest. The track was wide and well defined. I was walking ahead with Ajab, Devakishan, Sougatha, Datta and father-son duo of Prasad and his father. Ajab and Devakrishnan were narrating stories to each other, while we enjoyed the same.  Thus the wide, moderate path led us smoothly, and at around 1:00 pm we reached a small village, which had a huge resting space under a huge banyan tree with a water tap nearby. We stopped there for lunch, and during lunchtime, we came to know that few of our group members, including the group leader, lost the way and taken some other way. We waited for them, but came to know that they might reach through the other way only which was a shortcut to central station.
 
"The journey gets easier and memorable if you have the best company around."


The after lunch trek was what we all call ‘the real trek’! It was so steep, with big disturbing holes cut through in between. We literally had to crawl and had to gasp for breath as well. As I along with Prasad & father, Mayuresh & Uncle, Dipen, Diganta, Ajab, Datta, Deva and Rupa had climbed quite far until we met a diversion of trail, we had to keep waiting for the other members and guide to reach who all were quite far down to hear and see us. When they came closer, at the gesture of the guide we followed the left path, which thinly led us parallel to the mountain range, though we had to go upward only. But, then the real tragedy happened. The trail ended in the middle of nowhere. The guide also seemed a little panicked. Some of us found adventure in that, while some others, esp the Gujarati group got real angry and started arguing with the guide and other members.  Turning backwards, we had to go through a path, which was fully covered with bushes and grasses, and in a slanting position, we had  to make way first by clearing the grasses with one foot, then putting another step we had to walk for a long distance till we reached the real trail. I held Ajab’s hand, who kept saying,”Didi, I am scared!”  Though it was really scary as one slip of the step, you can fall in the gorge, never to be found again, but I had no option but to be strong as I was holding one kid’s hand and giving her the assurance that all would be fine.  After covering that particular path, we reached at a safer side and sighing and smiling we maintained our pace towards central station.

"So, here I come home to Nature."
Day-5; Trek to Top Station
(22nd Dec. 14)

It was our last day of trek that too was the shortest one, i.e. 5 kms. In order not to repeat the other days mistakes, it was decided to stay as close to the group and after every hour the group walking ahead to wait for the next group to catch up. The trek began at 9:30, and walking through the jungle amidst beauty of nature, we reached Top station at 12:30 pm. Oh, here we enter the road that is the border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The name Top station is historic one, as during British rule a ropeway connecting Top station to central and bottom station was used to transport tea from Munnar to Kottagudi, which then were used to transport by train to other parts of country and England. As thousands of tourists throng this area every year, a view point area had been specifically made for that purpose, from where one can have a panoramic view of Western Ghats. We were so excited that we just had a cup of tea each, dropped our bags at the coffee shop only and ran towards the view point. The view seemed to have been really mesmerizing, but at that point of the day the looming clouds or say fogs had engulfed the whole valley with zero visibility down the valley, we had to be satisfied with the foggy valley only, which looked beautiful at its own place.


 
"To see & envy the peaks from below, and then reaching them and standing side by side them, the feeling I cannot express but feel..." Hmm
After walking a good length, we got back to the coffee shop. By then whole group had arrived, including the party who left us at Karangini the other day to catch us up at Munnar. Ajab was with me all the way, and when her family met her at Top station, they felt so proud of her for successfully completing the trek. I suggested to her father, to let her do the Mountaineering course that I also did last summer, as she was a great kid with all the potential of being a good mountaineer as well as a good human being. We had our lunch at the coffee shop only and by the time we finished, the YH jeeps also reached, which were to fetch us to Munnar, which was 35 kms from there.

"Top Station view; The kerala-Tamil Border area!"
The jeep drove us, and soon we were in Kerala, the lush green tea gardens on both sides of the road welcoming us with full warmth. We really were mesmerized and struggled to see through as the jeep drove fast through the bumpy and curvy mountain road. On the way, the driver stopped the jeep to let us have sightseeing view of few of the places like Kundala Dam, Echo point, Tribal village view etc.  Through our excited and happy gestures, one can make out that we were in ‘God’s own real country’! J
 
"The never ending Tea Gardens."
Day-6; Travel to Kollukkamalai Hills
(23rd Dec. 14)

Well, done with the treks, now it was time for some ghumi-firi for sightseeing. The destination for the day was Kollukamalai peak, where the highest and oldest tea factory is located. It was about 37-38 kms from Munnar. The journey started on broad, well metalled and beautifully curved roads with awe inspiring views around for some distance, soon to enter the estate area with kacha, stony, bumpy, hilly curvy roads, where only strong tired jeeps can drive you. As we travelled, we were doing tandav nritya inside the jeep naturally, with no music at all, for the jeep wobbled in such a way that makes your entire system have a bubble boil. Our jeep broke down just at the entrance, and another jeep was called. My silly remark that ‘till now we trekked, and now jeep is trekking and we are the baggages on jeep’s shoulder having rock dancing movements that our bags would have had to undergo when we trekked,” made everyone laugh and agree to same. Lol We all were really tired by the time we reached up, but after reaching at the point, the soul captivating view of the Kollukkamali peak and Tamil hills and plains amidst misty haze suspended throughout, made us forget the tough journey we had to go through.
 
"You can also feel the yummy aroma of the fresh Kolukkumalai tea"
The highest tea factory made out of wood, which shows you the methods of processing of tea, is located so beautifully on the top that you won’t feel like going back. And the nearby outlet, from where you can sip the freshly flavored tea, welcomes you with most amazing, pure and fresh aroma spreading in the air around. My friends bought different types of tea to get to home, but I being lazy and slow in such things, kept myself contented with one cup of strong tea. We returned with lot of freshness in our minds and souls. The return journey was less tiring, as it was downward and the driver kept it slow and less jumpy. We stopped at many places for sightseeing, and in the evening visited Munnar Market, from where everybody did some shopping to take Munnar special things to their respective families and friends.
 
"Let the vehicle break down for a while, we have our own things to do. Dil Mangey more of Nature."
Day-7; Time to go back
(24th Dec. 14)

I didn’t realize how one week had slipped away like a dream, and soon it was time to return to the real worldly world. I took 6:30 am morning bus from Munnar to Madurai, along with Mayuresh and his Uncle, two co-trekkers from Navi Mumbai. Kalpna, Rupa, Vilas and Ajay dada came to see us off till bus stop. Let me tell you one thing, that there is some magic in the air around of western Ghats that make you sleep while travelling even if you are sleep deprived; for every single person in the bus dozed off, which I observed during my first day of travel to Kodaikanal from Madurai. Cool, isn’t it? Lol We reached Madurai at 11:30 am, and after saying good bye to Mayuresh and uncle, who had their further plans to sight see, I hired an auto and reached airport at 12:00 pm. As my flight was at 4:00 pm, the security person suggested me to stay out for I’ll be bored. And I went out to an open coffee house, ordered a tea and pulled out my lunchbox, in which I had my last meal of the Youth hostels packed. I had already started missing everything and every moment of the trek. I was nostalgic at every bite of the paranthas I was eating at that time, with the hope of, and aspiring for next trek.
"Let me squeeze the moment & take it along for forever...Gonna miss ya...:-)
Overall, this trek trip was another A-Awesome of this year. With this, my tours, trips and treks for year 2014 ends.
"I don't know what 2015 has in store for me, but 2014, you have been amazing. Thank you so much for everything. I'll miss you and cherish you for lifetime. Good bye.""


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